Here’s How BEHRENS is Breaking Barriers in the Industry

The world of independent watchmaking has always featured many popular names that are held with high regard within the industry. Despite not having the backing of conglomerate parent companies, independent watchmakers rely on their creativity and craftsmanship when it comes to creating a new product. While most independent watchmakers usually hail from Europe (specifically Switzerland!) and its neighbouring regions, the same can’t be said for BEHRENS, who made its mark from the Eastern hemisphere of the world.

Founded back in 2012 by Lin Bingqiang, BEHRENS has grown over the last 12 years through constant innovation in the high-end independent watchmaking industry. Despite its young age, they have been able to create a healthy and sustainable catalogue of watches that feature unique complications with meticulous attention to detail. Its bold and unconventional designs have since been incorporated into its identity, which further sets BEHRENS apart from many others.

The brand has already released two different collections of watches, split between its INVENTOR and ORIGINAL series. Out of all the watches, one of its more original and yet, unconventional creations includes the Orion One. Inspired by the ‘Mothership’ that aliens would use to travel to Earth, the Orion One brings out the best of BEHRENS when it comes to high-end independent watchmaking. From its unique shape to telling time in the most unorthodox of ways, these are just some of the features that make it and its brand different from everyone else.

We had a chance to sit down with the brand’s general manager and marketing director, Jaycee Fan to talk about what makes BEHRENS tick, the industry and world’s impression of products created in China, and more.

THG: Shall we start with a self-introduction about yourself and your experiences in the watch industry?

Jaycee Fan: Myself? Well, let me put it this way. I’ve been in the luxury watch industry since my first job after entering the workforce. I’ve worked for LVMH, Richemont, the Swatch Group, and several major retailers. In my previous roles, I primarily focused on marketing and sales. Now at BEHRENS, I oversee both marketing and sales. Mr. Lin is in charge of product development, manufacturing, and design, while I handle the rest. That’s the gist of it.

THG: What opportunity sparked your interest in joining the watch industry?

JF: Mr. Lin would tell this story better, as he loves sharing it with friends and partners, especially over dinner. He says that when we first met, he impulsively wanted to recruit me. However, since we met at a business event and had a collaborative relationship, he felt it would be inappropriate. Yet, the idea lingered in his mind. Later, when I was about to leave my previous company, we had a joint project with him, and I mentioned my impending departure. He was thrilled and invited me to Shenzhen to discuss something. It turned out he wanted me to join BEHRENS. I inquired about his vision and approach, although I had already witnessed his work firsthand. When I understood his genuine passion and experience, I immediately agreed.

After 15 years in the industry, I’ve constantly pondered how we can ensure the sustainable development of this industry and foster a love for high-end watchmaking culture across different times and eras. Mr. Lin is actively working towards this goal, not just theorising, but putting his ideas into practice. He excels at product development, but he needs help with marketing and reaching a wider audience. I believe my experience can complement his strengths, so I am thrilled to collaborate with him.

THG: So, Mr. Lin’s dream moved you, and you felt compelled to help it take flight.

JF: Precisely. He has a remarkable dream. What’s more, unlike many people whose dreams remain just that, he is actively pursuing his vision, utilising his strengths and advantages to make it a reality. He is highly skilled in technology and product research, with processing, manufacturing, R&D, and design constantly on his mind. I find it rare to encounter someone with such ambition and talent, so I’m incredibly happy to be working with him. The past few years have proven this to be true, as everyone involved is enjoying the collaboration.

THG: Do you think the “Made in China” label is an advantage or disadvantage for BEHRENS?

JF: We have a positive attitude towards it, just like Mr. Lin from the start. We embrace the label and never shy away from it because it’s neither inherently good nor bad. We are realistic: we are made in China. If you can accept that, we are delighted. If you have misconceptions about “Made in China,” we can show you what we do and explain our perspective on it. In fact, our interactions with consumers and partners have revealed that perceptions of “Made in China” vary greatly across regions.

Some people are surprised that “Made in China” products can achieve such high quality, while others are impressed with the capabilities showcased by Chinese brands. In the watch industry, we proudly embrace the “Made in China” label. We believe that haute horlogerie is a culture that benefits from inclusivity and diverse perspectives. Whether in China or Switzerland, we gladly identify ourselves as a Chinese brand and share our passion for upholding the traditions of haute horlogerie and mechanical artistry.

THG: What does original design mean to BEHRENS?

JF: It means our life. It means everything to us. We have to go back to our original intention for creating this brand. Mr. Lin was originally a high-end jewellery designer and even taught high-end jewellery design courses back in the 90s. Later, due to personal interest, he transitioned to the watch industry supply chain, where he worked for many years. We decided to shift from the supply chain to creating a brand because we felt that the world was constantly evolving, with different needs in different regions. We believed we could express a Chinese understanding of haute horlogerie through our unique perspectives and create something in the realm of mechanical art within the watch industry.

As we were contemplating this, we encountered a challenge, much like your question about the “Made in China” label. I understand your concern, as the term “Made in China,” especially in the watch world, has often been associated with copying and low-cost production. However, I believe that if you truly love this industry and this art, you won’t resort to copying. Those who do so are primarily driven by profit. BEHRENS is different.

If our goal were solely to make money, we would have chosen a different path, perhaps following the current internet trend of creating a single-hit product. We could design a model, maybe even a women’s watch, and use various marketing tactics to make it a bestseller, generating substantial profit. But we didn’t pursue that route because it felt meaningless. While money is a factor, Mr. Lin is not motivated by personal financial gain. He wants to combine his passion with his work and create something more meaningful.

Mr. Lin has a quality that deeply inspires me. Whenever he visits Switzerland, despite the jet lag and the demands of exhibitions, he thoroughly enjoys interacting with people. When someone asks about a particular watch, he enthusiastically shares the story of its design, conception, and creation. In those moments, he truly shines, and I can see that his hard work is fulfilling. He often tells me privately that those interactions are his greatest joy, and he must continue creating and thinking about new watches to share with those who appreciate them. Watches are his eloquent form of expression.

Originality is the foundation for creating something universally recognised, regardless of the industry. We hope to use our originality to change the perception of Chinese watchmakers in other regions. While some may have engaged in unethical practices, many are genuinely dedicated to their craft. This is why we chose the name, BEHRENS after the pioneer of modern design, Peter Behrens. It is a statement of our commitment to originality.

THG: Where does BEHRENS usually get its design inspiration from?

JF: Our inspiration comes from outer space. Truly, because Mr. Lin often says that. I often tease him, because if you’ve met him in person, you’ll notice his large head. I joke that with such a big brain, he naturally has more ideas than the rest of us. But ultimately, our inspiration is rooted in love. Only when you love something can you have unlimited inspiration. If you merely treat it as a job, you’ll quickly tire of it.

Secondly, our biggest source of inspiration is our lack of constraints. Unlike many Swiss or even Chinese brands with decades or centuries of history, we don’t have that legacy to limit us. We can imagine freely, pursuing ideas that others might not dare to explore. Additionally, we have the capability to turn our imagination into reality. Many watch companies have ideas but lack the resources to execute them. A former watch company executive once visited our company and expressed envy, saying he’d spent his life making watches, but couldn’t conceive of the things we were creating, nor would his company have the ability to manufacture them.

We have no burden, hence our brand slogan: “时刻，创想无界” (roughly translated to “boundless creativity in every movement.”) Every moment is limitless for us in terms of our artistic creations, creativity, and future potential. So don’t be surprised by what we come up with next. When we released the 20G, some people questioned if it was truly “BEHRENS.” I told them they didn’t understand the brand at all.

THG: How can people recognise BEHRENS at a glance?

JF: We can start with the Kung Fu watch. I recently visited a collector in Shanghai who told me that before the Kung Fu was released, he had heard we were making a watch with hands. He thought BEHRENS was done for, that we were abandoning our unique path and resorting to making ordinary three-hand watches. But when he saw the picture in Switzerland, he was shocked. We had made a three-hand watch, but it still looked distinctly BEHRENS.

This touches on a professional point: while we have no boundaries in creativity and imagination, our expression and technique are rooted in modern design. Even in a three-hand watch, you can see elements of modern design, such as its sense of power, simplicity, and industrial features. Many people recognise that we are different from other brands. They may not be able to pinpoint the specifics, but they instinctively sense that our watches are not traditional; they are modern designs. By combining our boundless imagination with our high-end manufacturing capabilities, we create BEHRENS.

THG: What is the impact of strong manufacturing capabilities on your design?

JF: It’s the fundamental guarantee that allows us to turn our creativity and imagination into reality. This guarantee stems from the current era and China’s rapid development in manufacturing capabilities. We build upon this foundation and have developed our own unique high-end watchmaking capabilities. For example, our “Perigee” watch features a nearly 360-degree three-dimensional carving of the Earth and Moon. Traditional craftsmanship, even with Swiss equipment, couldn’t achieve such a large-scale carving.

We use highly advanced equipment, but even that requires modification to achieve the desired effect. I often joke with my boss that we could sell the equipment, and it would probably fetch a higher price than the watches themselves. These high-end manufacturing capabilities are already commonplace in various fields, including high-tech, automobiles, and other industries in China.

THG: BEHRENS has developed very quickly in recent years. Are you concerned about growing too fast? Or do you already have a plan for continuous innovation?

JF: While BEHRENS has been officially registered for over ten years, in the world of haute horlogerie, that’s a very short time. Compared to century-old brands, we are just newborns. We are different in that we have achieved a stable and efficient output of new work every year through our efficient operation, dedicated efforts, and teamwork. However, we still consider ourselves a small and new brand, with a long way to go in terms of brand recognition and consumer awareness.

We are not worried about the long road ahead, nor do we fear losing momentum. From the beginning, we haven’t focused excessively on commercialisation or pursued excessive profit. We are steadily growing at our own pace, following our own ideas and ensuring self-sufficiency. The reason we can release so many new products annually is not because we started development last year for this year’s releases. We actually plan three to five years in advance.

For instance, in 2024, we were already developing pieces for 2026 and even 2028. This allows us to ensure a continuous stream of new products each year. We have many more ideas in the works. Mr. Lin, our founder and designer, has numerous sketches waiting to be realised. We don’t lack ideas; it’s a matter of steadily introducing them to the market and sharing our passion with those who appreciate our work. It’s a seemingly primitive approach that might not align with conventional business logic, but it’s how we pursue our passion.

THG: Does customer feedback have an impact on BEHRENS’ designs?

JF: Mr. Lin genuinely enjoys communicating with consumers and customers. This communication serves two purposes: he shares his ideas, concepts, and stories, and he actively listens to feedback. He believes that if the feedback is helpful and reasonable, it can be incorporated into future product improvements. For example, some customers have requested additional strap colours or shorter strap lengths, and we have accommodated those requests. In cases where we don’t implement certain suggestions, Mr. Lin will explain the reasons behind our design choices.

On a lighter note, Mr. Lin is someone who rarely declines an invitation to chat, especially when he’s in a good mood. People often reach out to him through social media, asking to visit the company for tea, and he will readily agree, sometimes spending an entire afternoon chatting. I worry about this because some might be competitors trying to glean trade secrets. I advise him against revealing too much, and he promises to change, but it inevitably happens again. It’s a bit of a headache.