Rexhep Rexhepi Chronomètre Antimagnétique for Only Watch 2024

For Only Watch 2024, Rexhep Rexhepi presents the Rexhep Rexhepi Chronomètre Antimagnétique, his third creation for the biennial charitable auction. Unlike previous variations of the Chronomètre Contemporain for Only Watch 2019 and 2021, the Chronomètre Antimagnétique is fundamentally different in design, finishing, and execution. For the occasion of Only Watch 2024, we caught up with Rexhep to discuss his newest release, his working relationship with casemaker Mr Jean-Pierre Hagmann, and the importance of transmitting knowledge. View the video below.

The Path to Only Watch 2024

Rexhepi first participated in Only Watch, a charitable auction of unique pieces from the industry’s most desirable brands, in 2019. The watch marked a turning point for the Genevan atelier, featuring the first case manufactured by legendary casemaker Mr. Jean Pierre Hagmann. Regarded as the greatest case maker of the late 20th century, Mr Hagmann was responsible for the design and construction of many of the watch industry’s most iconic watches from manufacturers including Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet, Breguet and Vacheron Constantin. Similarly, the 2021 edition of Only Watch was cause for celebration, offering a glimpse of things to come with Rexhepi unveiling the first Chronomètre Contemporain II watch. At first view, the RRCCII appeared similar to the RRCCI, yet close inspection reveals a subtle evolution. Most notably, a reworked case made under the supervision of Mr Hagmann with graceful Vichet-esque lugs (‘JPH’ stamped on the underside of the right lug), discreet modifications made to the design of the dial and a new movement, the RRCC02 with deadbeat jumping seconds.

 Rexhep Rexhepi Chronomètre Antimagnétique

Inspired by mid-century magnetism-resistant watches for scientists and explorers, such as the Rolex Milgauss made in tandem with the European Nuclear Research Institute (CERN) and the Patek Philippe Amagnetic. The Rexhep Rexhepi Chronomètre Antimagnétique (RRCA) riffs on the existing dial design language of the RRCCI and RRCCII and features a central alternating block motif abstractly representing the opposing polarities of a magnetic field. Finished in black grand feu enamel, the RRCA dial features gold poudre enamelled sectors and lettering, matched by hand-made solid gold hands for the hours, minutes, and centre seconds.

As explained by Rexhepi in the interview above, Mr Hagmann initially expressed minor reluctance over making the stainless-steel case. However, he was won over by the interesting stepped bezel, chamfered lugs, and the worthy cause underpinning the creation of the watch. The finished case is made up of 30 components, including a screw-down outer case back and a ferritic stainless-steel ring around the movement to protect the movement against magnetism. Despite the case’s complexity, the RRCA is an eminently wearable watch measuring 38 mm x 9.90 mm (excluding sapphire crystals), with a lug-to-lug measurement of 48 mm and a lug width of 20mm.

RRCA Calibre 

The RRCA houses a familiar yet different movement. It is familiar in that it features symmetrical movement architecture and a meticulous level of hand-finishing that one can expect from Rexhepi. Unlike prior releases, the RRCA does away with small seconds, opting for indirectly driven central seconds hand with a zero-reset function. Rexhepi has maintained visual balance while accommodating the auxiliary gear train that drives the central seconds hand and features a central balance wheel and expertly finished bridges. The viewer’s gaze is naturally directed towards the polished, rounded bridge that supports the seconds wheel driving the central seconds hand on the watch’s dial. Contrasting the steel case and lead-free German silver bridges and plates, Rexhepi has opted to render the pallet level and all wheels in 14k solid gold.

Rexhepi describes the satisfying ‘click’ as the case back is securely closed. Still, with a movement as perfectly finished as that of the RRCA, we envisage the successful bidder will have many opportunities to open and close the case back and admire the tremendous work of Mr Rexhepi.